The purpose of lighting planning is to make every action comfortable to watch
Many decoration projects regard lighting as the last accessory: the ceiling is filled with lamps. After moving in, I find that the living room is dazzling, the dining table is shadowed, and the bed is directly illuminated by the light source. The number of residential square meters in Taipei and New Taipei is not large, so lighting needs to be clearly divided into three things: "overall lighting, task lighting, and mood lighting" instead of using the same white light to illuminate all spaces.
Start with the activity line requirements
The living room needs flexible light for chatting, watching TV and cleaning; the dining table needs to allow food and faces to be seen clearly; the desk needs to illuminate the work surface to avoid screen reflection; and the bedroom needs low-stimulation light for reading at night and before going to bed. It is usually more effective to list the things you will do every day, and then decide the location and switch grouping of lamps than to choose a chandelier first.
Color temperature can be understood as "warmer, more natural, more white". Warmer light is often suitable for sitting areas, and natural or whiter light is better for reading, cooking and organizing, but there is no single number that is suitable for the whole family. The actual wall color, wood color, lighting and age of the user will all affect the experience. It is best to see samples on site before purchasing.
Lights are not omnipotent, and glare is worth preventing.
If the lamp shines directly into the eyes, no matter how bright it is, it will be uncomfortable. The lamp position above the sofa, bed and dining table depends on whether you will look directly at the light source when sitting or lying down. Also avoid shining bright light on the screen near the TV wall. Areas that require reading or sewing can be supplemented by local lights with adjustable directions, rather than lighting the entire room like an office. If the mirror headlight is only installed on the top of the head, it is easy to produce shadows on the face. Filling the light from the side or both sides is usually more natural.
The switch circuit should be reserved for future choices
You can turn on the main light as soon as you enter the door, control some lighting by the sofa, and turn off unnecessary lights by the bed. These small arrangements are more interesting than expensive lamps. Before decoration, mark on the floor plan the location of switches, double cut requirements, commonly used sockets and possible power supply locations for light strips. If you want to add dimming or smart control, you must first confirm that the lamp, driver and controller are compatible. Don't find out after completion that it will flicker or only be fully on and off.
Write maintainability into the design
Light strip drivers, chandelier junction boxes, and bathroom lighting fixtures will all be repaired one day. Whether it is accessible from the maintenance door, whether it is convenient to replace the light source, and whether appropriately protected lamps are used in wet areas should all be clarified before construction. Good lighting does not have to be flashy. It will quietly make life smoother when you read, cook, go home and get up at night.
On the night of completion, it is most accurate to actually walk through it
After viewing the samples during the day, it is best to actually use each switch, aisle and reading position at night. Check whether the light is sufficient and not dazzling when you enter from the entrance, go to the bathroom in the middle of the night, sit on the sofa, or stand at the sink; also check whether opening the cabinet door will block the switch. The cost of adjusting light positions, switches, or circuits is usually lowest when the problem is discovered when it is still at the end of construction. The success or failure of lighting design is rarely just in the photos, but in the moment when you naturally reach out and turn on the lights every day after you move in.
Keep a record of the current situation before and after construction begins
Before starting any home equipment or decoration adjustment, take photos of the panorama, joints, corners and original equipment markings; after completion, record the test methods, abnormal sounds, material models and warranty contact information. This information is not intended to predict the occurrence of disputes, but to allow the next person to understand the original condition when repairing, subletting, selling or handing over the property in the future. When a problem is discovered, you should first stop using it in a way that may cause damage, and avoid dismantling and modifying unfamiliar water, electricity, gas or wall structures in a hurry. By keeping good records, repairs will be judged faster and expenditures will be more easily explained.
The Ministry of Economic Affairs' latest "Regulations on Consumer Electrical Equipment Installation" and the key points of electricity safety in old houses
Due to the popularity of high-power household appliances (such as air fryers, microwave ovens, dishwashers, instantaneous electric water heaters, and IH furnaces) in recent years, the Energy Administration of the Ministry of Economic Affairs has revised the "Regulations on Consumer Electrical Equipment Installation" many times to strictly require the diversion and protection mechanisms of residential electricity circuits. Statistics show that more than 30% of building fires in Taiwan are caused by electrical factors, among which "old wire insulation deteriorates and short circuits", "socket contacts are oxidized and loose, poor contact" and "non-fuse switch (NFB) overloaded and failed to trip" are the three main fatal causes.
Old apartments in Shuangbei that are more than 30 years old have a total original designed power capacity of only 30A to 40A, and several rooms often share the same 1.6mm or 2.0mm circuit. In the modern standard safety configuration, kitchen electrical cabinets, bathroom equipment, and air-conditioning and heating machines must all be equipped with 5.5mm² dedicated circuits (single circuit and single socket). It is recommended that the main switch box be upgraded to a busbar (Busbar) integrated distribution board, and the total amperage is increased to 75A or 100A (a qualified electrical appliance contractor needs to be entrusted to Taipower to review the additional power capacity).
Residential electricity self-test and regular inspection checklist
- Appearance and temperature of the socket: Touch the outer cover of the commonly used socket lightly with the back of your hand. If it feels lukewarm or if you find that the plastic socket is yellowed and charred, or the plug is loose and shaking after being plugged in, it means that the internal copper plate clamping force is exhausted or the contact resistance is too high, and you should immediately cut off the power and replace it.
- Regular testing of leakage circuit breakers (ELCB): For leakage circuit breakers in humid places such as balconies, bathrooms, and kitchen sinks, regulations require that the "TEST button" on the switch be pressed once every 1 to 3 months to confirm that it can automatically trip and cut off the power supply instantly.
- Serial connection and overloading of extension cords are strictly prohibited: Extension cords should be purchased with 2.0mm thick wire diameter products that have CNS certification and automatic overload power-off protection. Do not share the same extension cord with high energy-consuming appliances to ensure zero hidden danger to life and property at home.
